2011 Official LGP HDTV Buying Guide

[columbia]

I got a 46" LCD last year for $499.
Low on features? I'm sure, but it still looks damn good for my needs.

[skullman80]

Don't buy plasma.

I have both an LCD and a Plasma... nothing wrong with Plasmas at all. The only thing I always tell people if the ambient light issue. If you are going to be in a room with tons of light all the time, then Plasma gives you alot more reflection than a LCD does. I have my Plasma in the living room and even with the blinds open during the day it's not a big issue. In a mostly dark/totally dark room(which is how I watch movies or tv most of the time anyways)... the picture is fantastic.

[Letang Is The Truth]

Check out the ads this weekend twc - lots of final four deals

[FanofUlf]

So I take it, LED is best, do it over LCD. Plasma unsure.

If getting a smart TV, make sure it has a web browser, not just apps, and wi-fi.

Here's a question, I know 120 v 60 Hz makes a difference, but, isn't all TV basically from 60 Hz or 120 Hz max camera, meaning 240 Hz is a farse? I think the same was told of 1080p, since few cameras shot this.

[pittsoccer33]

when youre talking about rates measured in hertz, there are two different things measured that way:

1) the video frame rate (how many individual images are captured per second)
2) the number of times per second the panel updates the pixels

Hollywood movies are shot at 24 frames per second. Historically some were doubled and others tripped to fit in a 60hz update pattern.

Television is usually shot at 30 frames per second, and are each shown twice, to create a 60hz signal. This matched up well with your 60hz tv you've watched since the 1950s.

Now with advanced tvs we can do things to match the video source's frame rate to the tv's update rate.

In the most preferable way, a 120hz tv will flash each frame of a 24hz bluray movie five times (24x5=120). They will flash the incoming video from a tv network twice per second (60x2=120). They can also use digital algorithms to artificially create more frames to fill in the spaces. Looks good on animation and some live tv, looks kind of creepy (to me personally) on most other things. 240hz just do this action twice as often.

[pittsoccer33]

Would like to keep it around $800 or so. Just looking for some guidance in what I should look for. I am willing to go up a little on the price if it is truly worth it... but I can't afford to drop $2k on a tv either.

bhaw made a very good observation - you will get a fully featured 40"/42" for $800 or a more basic 46" for $800.

since you have a PS3 you have most of the features a "smart" tv would have built into it. however, any nicer tv is going to come with them now anyway.

you will definitely want a 120hz television. 240hz is a more premium feature and would be a tv about twice your budget.

since you play video games I would probably not recommend plasma simply because even though burn in/image retention is not very common now, it is still a possibility. ive noticed a little bit of temporary retention on my plasma since ive got Vice City out for the pc. the radar bug and life meter both leave a mark on the screen for a little while.

id really think about 3D since you're a gamer. lots of video games are in 3D now, as are most big budget movies and some upcoming events like the olympics. you dont have to play/watch in 3D, but its there to have.

[the wicked child]

Thanks

[FanofUlf]

when youre talking about rates measured in hertz, there are two different things measured that way:

1) the video frame rate (how many individual images are captured per second)
2) the number of times per second the panel updates the pixels

Hollywood movies are shot at 24 frames per second. Historically some were doubled and others tripped to fit in a 60hz update pattern.

Television is usually shot at 30 frames per second, and are each shown twice, to create a 60hz signal. This matched up well with your 60hz tv you've watched since the 1950s.

Now with advanced tvs we can do things to match the video source's frame rate to the tv's update rate.

In the most preferable way, a 120hz tv will flash each frame of a 24hz bluray movie five times (24x5=120). They will flash the incoming video from a tv network twice per second (60x2=120). They can also use digital algorithms to artificially create more frames to fill in the spaces. Looks good on animation and some live tv, looks kind of creepy (to me personally) on most other things. 240hz just do this action twice as often.

So 240Hz is no gimmick?
What about 1080P...since few TV stations use that camera?

I got my confirmation number from BestBuy. On the phone, they seemed to indicate this will cover a model comparable to the one I am replacing (which was a 1080P, 120Hz, LCD, 40 inch).
I don't want this! In fact, I thought I'd get a credit for 1200 (what I paid) or even 1800 (list price).
A 1080P, 120HZ, LCD 40 inch by Samsung is maybe half that price, I thought my warranty would allow me to get either 1200 or model with new technology.

Perhaps this person on the phone at Geek Squad was not sure? Anyway I can work with management?

I really want, min, 120Hz, 1080P, LED 46...if not 240Hz, SmartTV, 50-55. I can understand paying for a size difference but I should not be stuck with a Samsung LCD.

[mac5155]

The warranty provides a replacement with similar specs or gives you a credit for a TV with similar specs. That's just how it is. That's how most all warranties work.

[JS©]

might want to check the fine print in that warranty. I think some places do cover a TV of similar value, but I think that's more of a special offer. Pittsoccer33 would probably have a much better idea than I do.

There's no way they'll reimburse for list price. Most of those prices are inflated to make it look like you're getting a deal. If I were a betting guessing man, I'd say that they'll bump you up to a 42" LED.

Even if they don't reimburse for similar value and somehow you end up with a TV with the same specs, you're basically getting your same TV back with zero miles on it. That's not a bad thing.

[pittsoccer33]

240hz CAN be a gimmick when it is doing frame interpolation (derisively called soap opera effect) but it is definitely a "premium" feature.

No tv channel is at 1080p now, but video games and bluray movies are.

TV warranties and what exactly they cover vary between stores - one reason the price range for 5 years of extended coverage on a 70" LED ranges from $99 to $749. I hope for $749 you will be getting more out of it when and if you need it.

Where I work(ed) - I am on a sabbatical during my busy season at my "real job" (plus electronics sales are really slow until football season starts) you got an authorization for the "value" of what you bought - I did replacements for people who bought $3500 rear projection sets from 2006 and they walked out the door with 60" Samsung 3D. We were told various things about our competitors to try "scaring" customers - such as:

-the other guys will give you a refurbished one
- the the other guys will only replace it once if it breaks (one and done)
-you will have to pack it up and send it in to them to be inspected

all kinds of stuff like that. to be honest I've never researched how true much of it was/is.

The currently available tv MOST similar to yours is the 2011 D630. It is a traditional LCD 1080p/120hz. It is a really nice television, probably one of the best overall values we carried last year. It does not have any networking ability but it gives a really nice fluid picture with great contrast, and absolutely no blooming, which is something that can happen to LEDs (look it up).

The next most similar would be the 2012 EH6000 and EH6100. They are 1080p 120hz sets, the only difference being that the 6100 has the smart tv apps. If I were the one buying though with my wallet, I'd buy the 6000 and a Samsung bluray player, which includes all the same apps for about the same price difference, but you also then have a bluray player as well.

[FanofUlf]

UPDATE:

BestBuy will only cover the replacement for a similar model: Samsung 40D630. Yuck, trying to see if I can get a larger, better model, as I paid $1200 but this costs only $650 now, I can either get that TV or they will credit me $650 or whatever the cost is that day of the 40D630 towards another set.

Not sure what to do for my new TV. So what should I get and what size?
LED v LCD v Plasma?

[FanofUlf]

So in getting a new HD, the only real specs needed are:

-1080P
-120 HZ (or 240)

And that it's spec wise (not taking into account USB ports, dynamic ratio, Smart Apps)?

[pittsoccer33]

those are the two major specs you really want.

LEDs are typically nicer than LCD, but that doesn't mean a good LCD set is inferior. even though an LED can get blacker, LCDs may have more uniform color and black levels.

The D630 is a pretty nice TV, I would not be upset with that at all from an overall quality stand point. The EH6000 is about $100 more than your credit, and it would be the similar LED model. I'd study that if you want to compare to an LED. For a plasma, the 42" UT50 from Panasonic would give you a lot more features.

What size you get is totally up to you and your room. Do you often say to yourself now you wish your tv was bigger?

[FanofUlf]

The impression I have is that, ideally, if buying now, get an LED because it has the best picture and best reliability, far better than an LCD.
I was told LED's can last 20 years but LCD's usually are 5-6 years.

Hence the take I have (and correct me if I am wrong) is: LED, 120HZ, 1080P.
Now I am not sure if I really need 240HZ, Smart Apps, or else I am buying an obsolute inferior TV, your take?

My TV is too small, I need a 46 (if I buy it for me) or a 50-52 if I buy it for my parents.

Curious if you have any other models to suggest.

[JS©]

The impression I have is that, ideally, if buying now, get an LED because it has the best picture and best reliability, far better than an LCD.
I was told LED's can last 20 years but LCD's usually are 5-6 years.

Hence the take I have (and correct me if I am wrong) is: LED, 120HZ, 1080P.
Now I am not sure if I really need 240HZ, Smart Apps, or else I am buying an obsolute inferior TV, your take?

My TV is too small, I need a 46 (if I buy it for me) or a 50-52 if I buy it for my parents.

Curious if you have any other models to suggest.

If you're going into the 46+ range, if it's LED it will more than likely be 1080p. Always better to ask, but I haven't seen any that didn't carry those specs. There are some lesser known brands that will do 720p, but those sets are typically sub-40 inches.

If you're buying a 46, I'd look at this one: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Samsung+-+4 ... Id=2128276

I have the 55 inch version of this version with a few more options and I love the pic.

[the wicked child]

I'm thinking about this... Toshiba 46" LED

There is a 40" version for $200 less that seems similar other than screen size and also has good ratings. Any thoughts?

[ulf]

we got a 60" samsung last weekend from best buy. it was last year's model so it was on sale. 999 plus it was out on display so we got it for 899 with a free wall mount. Didn't even want 3D but this had it so it was an added bonus and we already get the DirecTV 3D channels for free. It's on of these two tvs....dont feel like going to the basement right now to check the model number.

this
or
this

[ulf]

actually, those might be the same lol

[the wicked child]

Picked up the 46" Toshiba LED. Had to trek out to Century 3 BB to get it. Will give a review once I get everything up and running for a few days.

[mac5155]

What's the largest tv you can buy under 1000?

[viva la ben]

I've seen a 60" LG plasma for 999 @ Costco

[mac5155]

My buddy wants an 80 inch and claims Aarons has it for 1000

[ulf]

What's the largest tv you can buy under 1000?

See my post ^

[mac5155]

He's got to be thinking of a dlp set