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Post by **skullman80** » Tue Feb 24, 2015 2:23 pm

I miss programming, I just don't know if I have the desire to re-learn what I don't remember. I'd love to just sit at a desk and code all day.

Factorial · Post by **Factorial** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 3:29 pm

Deleting, and bypassing the Recycle Bin, 2.9 million 1-3K text files and the expected duration is 21 hours. Windows is

.

dodint · Post by **dodint** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 3:33 pm

Defrag when you're done.

Factorial · Post by **Factorial** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 3:36 pm

Trying dos now, deltree doesn't work in WIN7. The new command is rd.

Factorial · Post by **Factorial** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:32 pm

Gave up on dos as it's too slow. Installed cygwin and now doing an rm -rf and much faster.

Cygwin gives you lots of the UNIX commands on Windows:

https://www.cygwin.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Post by **columbia** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:49 pm

cygwin for the win.

This was about 10 years ago, but there was a time where I had that loaded on a PC at work and it was very useful.
Although I have zero recollection of what I needed it for.

dodint · Post by **dodint** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:12 pm

Nice.

Anyone ever work with Orca or another tool to modify .msi's? For whatever reason Apple found a way to make unchecking "Check for Updates for this and other Apple software" in the Quicktime 7.7.6 Quicktime.msi impossible. Variable 0 creates a check, 1 creates a check, 2 creates a check you can't uncheck.

From what I understand the variables can be anything from 0-34000 or something, so Apple could've just been dicks and assigned 'uncheck' to some random number.

Supposedly:

Code: Select all

msiexec /i "QuickTime.msi" /qn SCHEDULE_ASUW=0 ASUWINSTALLED=0

will do it but I wish it would just do it in the .msi. Bah.

Post by **columbia** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:14 pm

After using Linux (and other *NIX variants) at home for over a decade, I decided to make my life easier and buy an iMac.
Everything is SUCH a pain in the ass (like the above situation); I'm moving back to some *NIX flavor for my next desktop.

dodint · Post by **dodint** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:16 pm

It's just such a d-bag move by them. If you do it with an Adobe product it's a simple binary toggle.

Post by **tifosi77** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:28 pm

Hardware question: I'm switching our home ISP from U-Verse to Time Warner. I can either save $10 a month and improve my down speed from 24 Mbps to 200 Mbps, or spend $2 more a month and go from 24 to 300. (Haven't decided yet.) I want to buy my modem and router from the list of approved products. I think I need to be looking at the DOCSIS 3.0 products in order to maximize and at least partially future-proof. Any suggestions?

dodint · Post by **dodint** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:34 pm

Unrelated, but do you really hate U-Verse that much?

I like that SBG6580. I'd buy it off the bat even if you go with the slower plan so you can switch the plan without switching hardware later.

I don't have any hands on experience with anything on that list, though. I'm a Linksys guy.

eddysnake · Post by **eddysnake** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:37 pm

I would be greatly appreciated for some feedback. I was looking at getting a powered external hard drive for extra storage for my wii u. There's not a lot of options out there. Basically these 2 work for the console

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00834SJN ... PDKIKX0DER" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3RH5W ... SY200_QL40" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So I started thinking about building one. Looking around, I can probably get a 7200rpm hdd cheaper this way. I only need 500gb , but I'm not sure what else I should be looking for (sata I, I, I'll, 3.5,etc). All I know is has to be a powered. There are a couple different cases out there, do I want one with a fan (do the 2 up top have fans?)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004K4TE5 ... XI95N&vs=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KGNXT ... d_i=mobile" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Can anyone help me build one or should I just buy one of the above?

dodint · Post by **dodint** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:46 pm

I saw your other post in the Video Games thread. Is there a reason you abandoned the Y cable option? Seems like a portable w/y-cable would be the cleanest option.

Post by **tifosi77** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:48 pm

dodint wrote:
Unrelated, but do you really hate U-Verse that much?

Recently started capping data. I play games and stream Netflix all the time, I'm going to start incurring fees out the whazoo.

Plus, when I have an option for more or less the same money that gives me 12x the bandwidth, the argument should be 'do I hate TWC enough to prevent the move'? Cos other than that, I can't really see a reason to stay with U-Verse.

dodint · Post by **dodint** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:50 pm

I'm not advocating you stay with them, was just curious. Hopefully you'll get setup without an issue because TWC is hard customer support to work with.

dodint · Post by **dodint** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:15 pm

eddysnake wrote:
I would be greatly appreciated for some feedback. I was looking at getting a powered external hard drive for extra storage for my wii u. There's not a lot of options out there. Basically these 2 work for the console

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00834SJN ... PDKIKX0DER" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3RH5W ... SY200_QL40" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So I started thinking about building one. Looking around, I can probably get a 7200rpm hdd cheaper this way. I only need 500gb , but I'm not sure what else I should be looking for (sata I, I, I'll, 3.5,etc). All I know is has to be a powered. There are a couple different cases out there, do I want one with a fan (do the 2 up top have fans?)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004K4TE5 ... XI95N&vs=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KGNXT ... d_i=mobile" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Can anyone help me build one or should I just buy one of the above?

I have the non-USB version of that WD drive and love it. Really wish I had gotten a USB 3.0 version of it. Alas. The WD has passive cooling so it's quiet, no fan.

Don't waste your $10 on the more expensive (second) enclosure. Internally they're both SATA II and you won't use the USB 3.0 or eSATA on the more complex ensclosure. Keep it simple if you don't plan to use it for anything but the Wii U.

Also, external HDDs recommended by Nintendo for the Wii U if you wanted to peruse more options:

Buffalo

1 TB: HD-LB1.0TU3-US
2 TB: HD-LB2.0TU3-US

http://www.buffalotech.com/products/des ... ion-axis-2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Seagate

Backup Plus Desktop Drive

1TB : STCA1000100 (US)
2TB : STCA2000100 (US)

http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-dr ... plus-desk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Expansion Desktop

1TB : STBV1000100 (US)
2TB : STBV2000100 (US)

http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-dr ... ard-drive/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Toshiba

1 TB: HDWC110XK3J1
2 TB: HDWC120XK3J1

I just realized those 2TB drives are sub-$100. Wow. Do you have a 2TB drive or have you found one for less than $80? If not I'd pull the trigger on one of those. That 2TB Toshiba drive is $88 on Amazon.

eddysnake · Post by **eddysnake** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:16 pm

dodint wrote:
I saw your other post in the Video Games thread. Is there a reason you abandoned the Y cable option? Seems like a portable w/y-cable would be the cleanest option.

I read more into it and it appears Nintendo only recommends the ac powered hard drive. I also read some reviews of people experiencing issues with their console and the downloads when powered the y connector way. Maybe something with taking too much power from the console (apparently it's a very low power machine)? My concern would be damage to the console long term?

The y connection would be cheaper and more convenient (minus unplugging the Disney infinity base from the USB port each time)

The truth is, I really only try to buy physical media, but with some of their free promotions, I've run out of space. Because of the limited time I'll actually play the downloads, maybe it's not that much wear and tear? Just thought I'd play it safe...

dodint · Post by **dodint** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:22 pm

Nintendo actually endorses it, but as a secondary option to the best recommended powered option.

Can bus-powered hard disc drives be used with Wii U?

Some bus-powered hard disc drives draw more current than the USB 2.0 specification and might not run stably, so we cannot guarantee that such devices will run properly on Wii U without the use of a supplemental power cable called a y-cable that draws power from two USB ports. For best results, we recommend using a hard drive with its own power supply that connects to the Wii U system via the USB port on the console. - http://www.nintendo.com/consumer/latam/ ... sb-storage" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It's a subtle recommendation but it's there, item 12.

I assumed you just didn't want to fuss with unplugging the extra peripherals. I don't have a Wii U yet so have a hard time picturing how this actually looks.

The damage wouldn't be to the console, it would be to the data in motion (your download), or as a much lesser chance your portable drive.

eddysnake · Post by **eddysnake** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:25 pm

dodint wrote:

I have the non-USB version of that WD drive and love it. Really wish I had gotten a USB 3.0 version of it. Alas. The WD has passive cooling so it's quiet, no fan.

Don't waste your $10 on the more expensive (second) enclosure. Internally they're both SATA II and you won't use the USB 3.0 or eSATA on the more complex ensclosure. Keep it simple if you don't plan to use it for anything but the Wii U.

Also, external HDDs recommended by Nintendo for the Wii U if you wanted to peruse more options:

Buffalo

1 TB: HD-LB1.0TU3-US
2 TB: HD-LB2.0TU3-US

http://www.buffalotech.com/products/des ... ion-axis-2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Seagate

Backup Plus Desktop Drive

1TB : STCA1000100 (US)
2TB : STCA2000100 (US)

http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-dr ... plus-desk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Expansion Desktop

1TB : STBV1000100 (US)
2TB : STBV2000100 (US)

http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-dr ... ard-drive/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Toshiba

1 TB: HDWC110XK3J1
2 TB: HDWC120XK3J1
I just realized those 2TB drives are sub-$100. Wow. Do you have a 2TB drive or have you found one for less than $80? If not I'd pull the trigger on one of those. That 2TB Toshiba drive is $88 on Amazon.

Apparently when you format them for the wii u, you cannot use them for anything else (unless you reformat again). 2tb for under $100 is nice (even though there's very little chance I ever use 500gb).does Toshiba make decent hard drives compared the the Seagate or wd? Is there a difference in shelf life between one of those or building my own?

I

dodint · Post by **dodint** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:31 pm

Yeah, it'll be dedicated to the Wii U until you either don't need it anymore and reformat it or your Wii U dies. I say that because I have a 300GB external Seagate that my wife bought me for my birthday almost a decade ago and it's still in my system doing backup duty.

If you plan to only use 500GB or less, go ahead and build one with the enclosure and you'll probably pay half the price. I assumed you were maxing out the 2TB just so you can reuse it someday or something. Can't believe how inexpensive a 750GB drive is let alone smaller ones. You can only use one external HDD at a time with a Wii U so ensure you go big enough.

I do find it curious that Nintendo specifically says not to use a SSD.

As far as quality goes, I don't think it will matter. They're both used in enterprise hardware around the world and shouldn't give you a problem. I wouldn't be shocked if they were all made by Seagate if you pulled the actual HDD out of one of the completed units.

eddysnake · Post by **eddysnake** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:32 pm

dodint wrote:
Nintendo actually endorses it, but as a secondary option to the best recommended powered option.

Can bus-powered hard disc drives be used with Wii U?

Some bus-powered hard disc drives draw more current than the USB 2.0 specification and might not run stably, so we cannot guarantee that such devices will run properly on Wii U without the use of a supplemental power cable called a y-cable that draws power from two USB ports. For best results, we recommend using a hard drive with its own power supply that connects to the Wii U system via the USB port on the console. - http://www.nintendo.com/consumer/latam/ ... sb-storage" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It's a subtle recommendation but it's there, item 12.

I assumed you just didn't want to fuss with unplugging the extra peripherals. I don't have a Wii U yet so have a hard time picturing how this actually looks.

The damage wouldn't be to the console, it would be to the data in motion (your download), or as a much lesser chance your portable drive.

In that case (which would save me from finding an extra outlet space) , what are your thoughts on

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EAYFX5 ... PDKIKX0DER" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Vs

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IVFDQF ... PDKIKX0DER" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If the wii can't take advantage of USB 3.0,does the 7200rpm still have an advantage over the 5400?

My guess is I need this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L1K1OI ... UYYA3CT6HJ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Which will go from the hdd and then into the 2 USB ports on the wii u?

I see some reviews on the way above with good results. I was just more worried about damage to the console

dodint · Post by **dodint** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:42 pm

That's a pretty great cable as it allows you to buy a USB 3.0 drive (future proof) and use it with the Wii U. You'll still get 2.0 speeds though.

USB 2.0 is about the slowest interface the Wii U could possibly have. I don't know the numbers off hand and if someone can correct me, great, but the drive speed will never slow down that bus bottleneck. It only has a practical transfer rate of 35-60MBytes/s which is slower than any practical modern spinning disc.

I had that exact WD drive in that exact color. It failed on me in Afghanistan after about 6 months. WD is a solid company though so my results may be atypical.

eddysnake · Post by **eddysnake** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:52 pm

So are you saying that the touro (or a home build) hdd of 7200rpms is overkill for this?

If I build one, could you suggest a 500gb or 1tb hard drive to use?

It's looking like a build or y connector might be the way to go. If the rpms don't matter much, I don't think I'll get much better than $60 for the weekend and y cable. If you don't think that way poses a threat to the console, I'd think that's probably the frontrunner

dodint · Post by **dodint** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 8:07 pm

I don't think there is a threat to the console at all.

7200rpms is overkill for data that running through USB2.0. If it were SATA or USB3.0 I'd require it.

My primary laptop runs a WD Blue 3.5" drive. It's $44 for a 7200rpm 500GB. I can't find anything less expensive for 500GB, but $10 more gets you 1TB. But then you can just get this 500GB cased WD external for $49.99. You'd be out the door for $57 if you buy the cable and enclosed drive.

Basically what I'm saying is everything is overkill for the USB 2.0 bus, and the basement on quality HDDs is about $45 for 500GB. If i were in your shoes I would get the WD Blue I linked above, your Rosewell Casing, and a Y cable. It would be $72. At that point you might as well pay for the Touro. I can't in good conscious recommend the $49.99 WD Enclosed Drive because I had one die on me, but that's me.

Bottom line, unless you want to build for the fun of building, buy the Touro.

eddysnake · Post by **eddysnake** » Wed Feb 25, 2015 9:09 pm

Thanks a lot for your help. I have a passport ultra that I've used for about 2 years no problem now, so I'm not so scared off as you are (knock on wood). If the touro (7200) isn't going to make a difference from the wd passport (I'll have to double check that it can't handle 3.0), I guess I have to consider is $15 more, worth it for 500gb more of space. Only thing that worries me about the touro is I haven't seen any reviews of people using it for the Nintendo (where is there's plenty of positive feedback on the way.)

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