So I read online that needing to get your oil changed every 3k miles or 3 months is a lie.
Can anyone confirm? Why are they allowed to keep this lie going?
Depends on driving habits and quality of oil used. I change my Jetta's every 10k miles, as recommended by Volkswagen, and I only use the 502 spec fully synthetic they require. There has actually been extensive labwork done to prove that 10k is on the low end of the spectrum, and the oil doesn't start to deteriorate until 30k miles.
If you really want to geek out, read some of this thread:
Mac, I was coal rolling in my cousins new Ford Power Stroke 6.7 turbo diesel yesterday. 600 horsies... I was thinking about you.
6.7.. good motor. He should be happy it isn't the 6.0. Im assuming he deleted some stuff if you were truly rolling coal. Those things can tow like a boss. My sister's BF just bought one actually for his landscaping business.
Mac, I was coal rolling in my cousins new Ford Power Stroke 6.7 turbo diesel yesterday. 600 horsies... I was thinking about you.
6.7.. good motor. He should be happy it isn't the 6.0. Im assuming he deleted some stuff if you were truly rolling coal. Those things can tow like a boss. My sister's BF just bought one actually for his landscaping business.
Banks systems and the like can make those things beasts.
I'd still take an 05-06 LBZ d-max over it any way. I have been in my buddy's when we were towing 20k pounds up a 20% grade @ 75mph. Had to back off because EGTs were around 1700* lol.
I just had my oil changed in my 2012 Honda Civic, over 10,000 miles before the oil life in the car was down to 10%. I drive probably 95% highway miles. I figure if Honda is putting in a gauge to tell me my "oil life", then I am going to use it. The last time I checked it right before my oil change, the oil was not really that dirty. Never had to add any either during this interval either.
I believe the oil life gauge is just some formula that takes in the oil temp, engine RPM and some other factors to determine how the oil is breaking down.
I just had my oil changed in my 2012 Honda Civic, over 10,000 miles before the oil life in the car was down to 10%. I drive probably 95% highway miles. I figure if Honda is putting in a gauge to tell me my "oil life", then I am going to use it. The last time I checked it right before my oil change, the oil was not really that dirty. Never had to add any either during this interval either.
I believe the oil life gauge is just some formula that takes in the oil temp, engine RPM and some other factors to determine how the oil is breaking down.
You would be correct about that. It does not conduct any sort of chemical analysis on the oil.. it's simply a dummy light.
Car engines these days have much tighter tolerances, cleaner combustion, and better controls. Oil is also better, especially if you're using synthetic. My Hyundai recommends 7,500-mile intervals, and many cars go even longer. When my car was newer the oil wouldn't even start to darken until maybe 5,000 miles into the interval. An old car might need more regular changes, but changing the oil every 3,000 miles on a new car is throwing away money. And of course oil-change places don't want you to know that.
It's also depends on how much you drive.
My car will be four years old in September.....I think I have 23,000 on it. (My next oil change will be the first one I've actually paid for; some Toyota "members club" thing finally expired.) So shelling out $50 every time isn't much an issue, given my driving habits.
It was kind of intimidating when it came in the mail, almost cartoonish. Thought I might've wasted some cash. But when I got it installed the 2" went a long way in correcting my seating position. Now my knees aren't resting on the dash and my pedal control is a lot better. The only foreseeable issue is that the shifter might be a touch too far forward, but the short shift kit might alleviate that issue when the time comes.
The other benefit being that with my more natural driving position my helmet doesn't rest against the ceiling.
New wheel is a 350mm Momo. Really nice fitment, the stock wheel is ~385mm which is buslike for a sports car.
Yeah, that's pretty sick. Our 5-series inline 6 TT only gets 300hp, can't imagine double that from essentially the same car. Talk about effecient merging from the on-ramp.
Anyone ever have a vehicle wrapped in vinyl? I really wanted a Crush Orange Jeep but they were sold out everywhere when I bought so I'm thinking of having it wrapped. Thoughts?
Anyone ever have a vehicle wrapped in vinyl? I really wanted a Crush Orange Jeep but they were sold out everywhere when I bought so I'm thinking of having it wrapped. Thoughts?
i wrapped a car in saran wrap for april fools day. does that count?
Anyone ever have a vehicle wrapped in vinyl? I really wanted a Crush Orange Jeep but they were sold out everywhere when I bought so I'm thinking of having it wrapped. Thoughts?
I know plastidip is big right now but I'm not crazy about the look. Maybe I just haven't seen it done right. The vinyl wrap sounds interesting because it can look like a real paint job if done well and you can remove it any time and your original paint isn't disturbed at all and is, in fact, protected by the vinyl.
I'm considering doing a wrap on the track car once everything else is finished. Nothing beats paint, but then I can run a new 'paintjob' every season for a significant decrease in cost.
There are a host of different liveries I want to do down the line, including some vintage Warsteiner and Fina jobs, to some modern Red Bull and USCC RLL homages. Be fun to do a different one every two years or so.
My real passion is vintage BTCC stuff, though, since that was one of the biggest series that my car actually raced in:
That Tim Harvey one, with the Listerine sponsorship, specifically.
Also, hey look, Colin Mcrae racing a '92 318:
This is a pretty cool recap of that era with lots of great pics, even of the Volvo Wagon that ran for a while. It's the source of the graphics above.
